Pakistan Travel Guide: Visa, Getting Around, and Staying Safe
What the e-visa and ETA process actually involves, how to get between cities, the NOC rules worth knowing before you plan a route, and the food to go looking for.
Pakistan isn't a place most travellers plan a quick stop in — it tends to be somewhere you arrive for one reason and leave wanting to come back for several more. Rich history, genuinely dramatic landscapes, food that punches well above its reputation, and hospitality that catches a lot of first-time visitors off guard.
None of that is useful on its own, though, so here's what actually matters before you go: the visa process, how to move around once you're there, what the safety rules really mean in practice, and where the food is worth planning your day around.
Visa and entry requirements
Pakistan offers an e-visa and visa-on-arrival route for nationals of 64 countries — but "visa on arrival" is a bit misleading. You still need to apply for an Electronic Travel Authorization (ETA) 48–72 hours before you travel. It's issued instantly online and valid for 60 days from issue.
Sometimes you'll be asked afterward for extra documents by email, like a screenshot of your hotel booking. Have that ready, since not responding can delay the ETA. You present the ETA alongside your passport, a photo, and your hotel booking to get the actual visa stamped on arrival.
If you're applying for a full eVisa rather than the ETA route, you'll need an invitation letter from an authorised tour company or individual in Pakistan, confirming your dates and that they're responsible for you during the trip.
Getting to Pakistan
Most international arrivals come through Karachi, Lahore, or Islamabad, though some travellers cross overland from India via the Wagah border. International carriers including Emirates, Qatar Airways, Turkish Airlines, British Airways, Etihad, and PIA fly in from various regions — British Airways runs direct flights to Islamabad from the UK. A handful of Pakistani airlines (Airblue, Fly Jinnah, Serene Air, Air Sial) also fly direct from Saudi Arabia, the UAE, Bahrain, Oman, and Malaysia. Riyadh Air is also expanding into Pakistan; see my update on its new routes.
Getting around: air, train, bus
Domestic flights
PIA, Airblue, Fly Jinnah, Air Sial, and Serene Air connect the major cities, with frequent flights most days. The exception is Skardu — only PIA and Airblue fly there, and seats sell out fast in summer, so book ahead if that's on your route.
Trains
Pakistan Railways runs an extensive network, and the Green Line and Karakoram Express are the two most popular with foreign visitors, especially between Karachi, Islamabad, and Lahore. Business class, AC parlour, and parlour cabins often include food service, with a separate restaurant cabin if you'd rather eat there than in your seat. Book ahead for the better cabin classes, particularly around holidays.
Buses
Daewoo Express, Faisal Movers, and Q-Connect cover intercity routes reliably, with NATCO handling the more remote Gilgit-Baltistan routes including Skardu and Hunza. Each company runs its own terminals and tickets aren't sold at regular bus stops; phone reservations exist, but you still pay at the terminal to confirm, so get there with time to spare. Newer buses increasingly have recliner seats and sleeper options for the longer hauls, and the motorway network connecting major cities is in good shape.
Getting around the cities
Uber has pulled out of Pakistan entirely, and Careem has thinned out. Indrive is now the most-used ride-hailing app in the bigger cities — you name your price, drivers bid, and you pick based on fare and rating. I go with the higher-rated drivers when the price difference isn't much.
In Islamabad and Rawalpindi, unmetered private taxis are more common than app-based rides, and fares get negotiated on the spot — worth knowing since drivers sometimes quote higher if they think you're not local. Rickshaws are everywhere and are usually the fastest way through busy areas, but negotiate first, and keep Indrive or Yango open to sanity-check the price if a driver's asking rate feels steep.
Lahore is the one city with proper mass transit: the Metro Bus (27 stops, elevated and mostly traffic-free, tokens from roughly PKR 30 / $0.10) and the Orange Line Metro Train (26 stations, fares around PKR 25–40). Both have English signage, and the Orange Line also offers a rechargeable smart card if you're staying a while.
Getting a local SIM
You can't just walk into any shop for a SIM here — foreigners need to go to a specific customer care centre and bring a copy of their visa and passport. It's a bit more effort than in most countries, so build in time for it on day one rather than assuming it'll be quick.
Safety and the NOC rule
Pakistan is, overall, a safe and welcoming place to travel, including popular spots like Karachi, Lahore, Islamabad, Peshawar, and the northern areas — Gilgit-Baltistan, Skardu, Fairy Meadows, Swat, Hunza, and Kalash. In some areas you may be accompanied by armed security, and it's genuinely worth sticking to well-known tourist areas rather than improvising.
The one rule worth knowing in advance: certain high-risk regions require a No Objection Certificate (NOC), and foreigners are barred from entering any part of Balochistan without one — typically only issued for crossing into or out of Iran. If your route brushes anywhere near this, check well before you plan around it, not after.
Culture, customs, and food
Family is central here, and it shows in daily life more than most guidebooks capture. Dress modestly, particularly outside the big cities and at religious sites, and skip large political or religious gatherings. Don't be surprised if someone asks for a selfie with you — it's a normal, friendly gesture rather than anything to be wary of.
The food alone is worth the trip: biryani and spicy karahi in Karachi, lahori chargha, nihari and haleem in Lahore, tender kebabs and qabli pulao in Peshawar, and multani sohan halwa if you pass through Multan. Bargaining is expected in local markets, so don't take the first price at face value.
Before you go
Use this list as a final check before setting off.
- Apply for your ETA 48–72 hours ahead, and have a hotel booking screenshot ready if asked
- Check whether your route touches a region requiring an NOC — Balochistan above all
- Book Skardu flights or peak-season train cabins in advance
- Pack for modest dress, especially outside major cities and at religious sites
- Plan on visiting a SIM customer care centre on arrival rather than a regular shop
My takeaway
What stands out most about travelling in Pakistan isn't any single sight — it's how much the hospitality shapes the trip, often in small, unplanned moments.
How I know this
This guide draws on my own travel and research into Pakistan's visa process, transport network, and safety guidance.
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